Queen Elizabeth II is wearing one of Rachel Trevor- Morgan’s millinery creations for the first time! Isn’t it divine?! Her Majesty is accompanied by David Brewer, Lord Mayor of London, as she is leaving St. Paul’s Cathedral following a Service of Thanksgiving to mark her 80th birthday on June 15, 2006, in London, England.
“Hats off” to Rachel Trevor-Morgan, the esteemed British milliner, who in 2014 was granted a Royal Warrant from Her Majesty The Queen. Her impressive, bespoke hats have garnered respect and admiration internationally. Her stunning millinery creations have a dedicated following from a distinguished arena of clientele. What an honor it was to interview Rachel! She is now creating her divine bespoke creations for an American audience too. Derby anyone?!
(*Please note that the U.K.spelling within Rachel’s answers may be different than our American spelling.)
~When did you know that you wanted to be a designer?
I have always loved creating. At first, I wanted to become an actress and go into the theatre, which led me to thoughts of designing costumes, but somehow I ended up in millinery. My mother always wore hats to church on Sundays. She was well known for them. I think this must have had an influence.
~Do you have a particular creation that you are most proud of? (Along with your Royal Warrant appointment!)
Without a doubt, the first hat I made for Her Majesty stands out as one I am most proud of. It was for her 80th birthday service at St Paul’s Cathedral. I knew that the hat was for this very special service but I still couldn’t quite believe that she would actually be wearing it until I saw her step out of the carriage!
~Who are your role models?
I trained with a wonderful milliner called Graham Smith. He had a great influence on me. Not only was he a superb designer but he was also a grafter and rather understated in his own way. I have huge admiration for him. He understood what his clients wanted, and his design ‘handwriting’ was always elegant and perfectly crafted.
~Where do you draw your inspiration from?
I adore the 1940s and ‘50s, the golden age of couture and Hollywood glamour. I draw great inspiration from old films and books. At Rachel Trevor-Morgan, we are well known for our handmade flowers and I definitely draw inspiration from beautiful plants and foliage. In truth, inspiration can come from the most unexpected places such as a beautiful architectural shape or an old painting.
A coral, fine-straw hat with hand-made silk roses and buds. This is a shallow crown hat so it is fitted with an elastic for extra security and can be made in any color to complement an outfit. The reference number is R2173.
~Your creations are enchantingly divine; how do you decide the style for a client?
This year marks my 30 years in business. Over that time, I have built up some knowledge about what suits different people, which I think perhaps only comes with so many years in the business. It is so important to listen to your clients and to try and get to know them in order to find out something of their character and their requirements. That way you can have a better understanding of what will work for them. I think for me, a lot is instinctive.
~When designing a hat to complement a dress, do you have the dress on-site in your atelier, and how do you consider the venue in which it will be worn?
Most clients will bring their dress with them to an appointment, or at least they will have their design and fabric swatches. I will consider what style might work with the styling and print. If it is busy, then ideally you would want to keep to a simple silhouette for the hat, but a simple dress would allow for a more extravagant hat. I invite my clients to try on a lot of different styles so that I can see what works. It is important to consider what event it is being worn for and the venue. A cathedral wedding? A village church? It is important to get the balance right. You would not want to turn up to a Royal Garden party looking like you were attending Royal Ascot.
~Have you ever attended a wedding, or a function, where you designed the hats for some of the attendees?! How was that experience?
Yes, it is the biggest thrill. Attending Royal Ascot is where I see the most hats. It is such fun looking out for our designs and I always feel very proud to see them in action. Royal Ascot is the peak of our season and we have always been working all hours to get everything finished. It is such a wonderful reward to see the finished results being worn and looking fabulous!
~Do you have a favorite color? (My signature color is pink!)
I definitely have my favourite colours that often turn up each season. Probably more palettes than individual colours. I am very particular about colour and what shades I use. I normally do the dying myself in order to get the exact shade I am looking for. If I make a hat in a colour I don’t like, it normally doesn’t sell! I love dusty pinks, hot pinks, aubergine, reds, and greens… to name but a few!
Rachel Trevor-Morgan is known for their flowers which are dyed, cut, rolled, and hand-tooled in-house. They are made out of silk, felt, or straw with their flower-making tools, which are heated before using to give the flowers and petals their shape.
~How long is your creative process from generating designs to actual production?
It is actually very quick once I get going. Starting a collection can be very daunting but once the ideas start flowing, I often find it difficult to stop!
~What helps you get into a state of creativity?
Urgency! I need deadlines.
~What are your thoughts on the future of hats? Are they so deeply embedded in British culture that they are here to stay? Why have they endured for so long in the UK?
I believe hats are here to stay. Hat wearing has always had its ups and downs. Back in the 1950s, here in the UK, everyone wore hats all of the time. In the decades since, we have of course lost that formality but there is something about wearing a hat that cannot be replaced. There is a sense of drama and mystery. You can stand out, hide, become someone else… be who you want to be!
The navy petal Charlene (R2163) is reminiscent of vintage Dior shapes and is incredibly flattering and feminine. It is fitted on a headband which means that it slides into place and perches on the wearer’s right side, almost like a peek-a-boo effect.
~What are your thoughts on gloves matching your hats?
I really don’t think there are rules on this. Stand back and consider your whole look. What works? What looks elegant?
~Do you ever repurpose a hat?
For another event? Yes, absolutely! I can think of nothing sadder than a beautiful hat that is designed for a special event being put away and never worn again.
~I am curious as to what people are buying, how it has changed, and how that is translating into what you are designing presently during Covid?
Covid has certainly been devastating to the British Hat Trade. We are largely events-based so without the British ‘Season’ there weren’t many hats worn. Recognizing this has made us approach business differently over the last 12 months. One result was the launch of our new ready-to-wear collection ‘Ella’ (after my daughter). It is a range of more casual hats and fun embellished berets that have been a huge success. We are planning a summer season of panamas and bright straws.
Next week, I am thrilled to share Part II of my interview with Rachel. We discuss the traditions and protocol of wearing a hat. For example, you’ll learn which side of a lady's face a hat typically slants towards!
Consider inspiring one or two friends to subscribe to MMM today! You may also join me on Instagram for daily inspiration.