Photo credit: @bespokennotbroke
There is something magical about attending a White tie Ball! An elegant, festive aura surrounds a ballroom when graced with ladies in sumptuous long gowns, sparkling with jewelry and handsome gentlemen, dapper in tails; an image that reflects a gracious, romantically genteel time.
With the upcoming “Paradise Ball” celebrating the Salvation Army of Palm Beach County’s centennial, several young gentlemen have contacted me and inquired about the correct aspects required for a White tie dress code. Here we go!
A White tie dress code has been the most traditional “formal” attire since the 1800’s. It is also cited as “full evening dress” and informally referred to as “tails.”
Our son, Stuart III, in White tie, escorted our daughter, Caroline, when she was presented at The Infirmary Ball in NYC in December 2002.
A proper White tie ensemble includes the following:
A black tailcoat (with tails) and matching trousers
A waistcoat (vest) in white cotton pique
A white shirt with a white pique bib front
White suspenders
Studs with matching cufflinks
A white pique hand-tied bow tie
Black silk over-the-calf socks
Black shiny patent leather pumps
Optional accessories: white kid-leather gloves, a white evening scarf in silk or cashmere, a gold pocket watch, or a black top hat. (The “Putting on the Ritz” cane? Leave that behind!)
A fond memory: Stuart and I before meeting Prince Edward at a White tie ball in London at St James Palace, twenty-five years ago. White tie dress code has not changed since the 1800's…talk about timeless attire!
A black tailcoat features a pair of tails reaching the back of a gentleman’s knees. The black trousers, in the same fabric, have either a double or single stripe of satin or grosgrain ribbon along the two outseams of each pant leg.
The trousers do not require a belt, so they must fit well and have a higher cut at the waist so that the waistcoat (vest) will cover the waistband of the trousers. White suspenders hold up the trousers.
A proper waistcoat (vest) in white pique fabric (aka Marcella in the UK) is similar to a vest. It is backless and has a U-shape or V-shape opening in the front. A single-breasted waistcoat is closed with 2-3 buttons, while a double-breasted one has four buttons. The buttons may be covered in white pique fabric, made of mother-of-pearl, or with custom studs. It has an adjustable neck strap to raise or lower the length of the waistcoat as needed. The white waistcoat should be longer or NOT peek out under the black tailcoat. Well-made waistcoats may offer a loop that attaches to the waistband of the trousers so that the waistcoat will not raise, exposing the trouser waistband.
The White tie winged dress shirt is different from the Black tie dress shirt, even though both are white. The White tie dress shirt has a distinctive, inset “bib-like” front. (The Black tie shirt has pleats in the front.) The shirt may have a detachable, wing-tip collar with buttons to attach it to the shirt. Some shirts offer a loop in the back of the collar to hold the bow tie in place. The shirt cuffs require cufflinks to match the button studs in the front of the shirt. Traditionally, a ¼” of the white cuff peeks out from under the tailcoat sleeves.
The bow tie is the same white cotton pique fabric as the waistcoat. To be noted, the bow tie must be hand-tied, not “pre-tied.” The butterfly bow tie has a curved shape to the bow. The other option is the batwing bow tie, which is straight, not curved. (I prefer the butterfly shape.)
While “no socks” are the chic norm in Palm Beach, for a White tie event, black silk (or a silk/wool blend) over-the-calf socks are a must.
Proper shoes are shiny black patent leather pumps, preferably with a grosgrain bow, also called opera pumps or court shoes. The second option is lace-up black patent leather dress shoes. (Not my preference.)
In place of a white pocket square, a white boutonniere may be pinned over the pocket on the tailcoat, but not both. (A white gardenia boutonniere continues to be my traditional favorite.)
If an invitation indicates “White tie with Decorations,” another level of formality is expected, with honorary medals, sashes, and neck badges worn by the recipient that received/earned them. I will discuss the protocol for this at another time. Decorations are not worn to a White tie event unless specifically indicated on the invitation.
No-no’s to know!
No-no: To wear a pre-tied bow tie.
The white pique bow tie should always be hand-tied. (When in doubt, practice tying a bow tie around your leg. It is similar to tying a shoelace!)
No-no: To wear a belt.
One does not wear a belt with evening wear.
No-no: To mix and match any part of Black tie attire, suit attire, or a white dinner jacket, with a White tie ensemble.
My darling daughter, Alexandra, on her wedding night, with her husband, Maximilian. They are listening to a joyful toast being made to them at their White tie reception in Berlin, Germany.
To be noted, at The Paradise Ball, Black tie may be worn in lieu of White tie.
If you do not own a White tie ensemble and wish to rent one in Palm Beach, The Tux Shop Palm Beach is kindly offering a discount for a White tie outfit if you mention “Salvation Army- Paradise Ball!” Located at 4550 PGA Boulevard, Palm Beach Gardens, FL. (561) 626-8899
To purchase Paradise Ball tickets click here!
Ready to dance the night away, gentlemen?
Xx
Holly