The coronation dress of HM Queen Elizabeth II was created by fashion designer, Norman Hartnell, in 1952-1953.
Presently, there is a stupendous show about the Royals’ fashion, “Royal Style in the Making,” at Kensington Palace in London. The exhibition, which will be open until January 2022, explores the relationship between the fashion designer and the royal client. The star of the exhibition is Princess Diana’s glittering, ivory wedding gown with a 25’ train, along with creations by the noted royal designer, Norman Hartnell, including a c.1940 dress in black velvet that is unknown publicly and on loan from the estate of the late Princess Margaret. It was either given to her or it was bequeathed by Queen Elizabeth The Queen Mother.
Have you heard of the noted fashion designer, Norman Hartnell? I wanted to learn more about him, so I turned to Nick Rayne (of Rayne Shoes, with 3 Royal Warrants) who kindly introduced me to his dear friend Michael Pick. For over forty years, Michael has been an antique and fine art dealer, lecturer, and expert in historic regal fashion, and he shares a delightful commentary about “How to design for royalty,” on the Historic Royal Palaces video.
Michael Pick has a large library of books devoted to decorative arts and history.
Michael has written eight splendid books and his breadth of knowledge is renowned! His most recent book is a biography about Norman Hartnell, the world-famous fashion designer who, for over six decades, changed the face of fashion, launching the image of the royals and contributing to British fashion on the world stage. Hartnell held three Royal Warrants from Queen Mary, Queen Elizabeth The Queen Mother, and Queen Elizabeth II. The 1953 coronation dress, along with Princess Margaret’s wedding dress, are amongst the thousands of dresses Hartnell designed. He was a fashion favorite in the USA from the late 1920s on and was the first UK dress designer to be awarded a knighthood.
One of three windows devoted to Norman Hartnell at Best & Co., Fifth Avenue NYC, 1929.
What part of the Kensington Palace exhibition do you find most fascinating and why?
I find the recently researched black velvet evening dress, c.1940 for Queen Elizabeth, consort of King George VI, intriguing. It is one of Hartnell’s slim-line designs, quite different from the grandeur of his crinoline designs, but still regal with its white sleeve accents reflecting broderie anglaise (white needlework, cutwork, aka English embroidery).
What can we learn from Royal design that would be applicable to anyone who appreciates a lovely wardrobe?
Fitness for purpose is the major key to all good dress design. Royal clothes are most usually designed as part of working wardrobes, matching fabrics, colours, and design details for the occasion. Queen Elizabeth was recorded by Sir Hardy Amies (a Royal Warrant holder designer and founder of the Hardy Amies label, and the subject of another biography by me), as being very knowledgeable about fabrics and designs for various occasions, including State Visits abroad. Items in her wardrobe are regularly worn on more than one occasion with hats ringing in the changes.
At what age did you realize your interest in fabulous fashion?
I vividly remember watching the 1953 Coronation on television at home. Both men and women were commenting on what was worn. My mother was a prewar client of Hartnell and all the women in my family were avid fashion followers. Hartnell was a household name, bigger than Dior for us because he dressed all the ladies of the Royal family for their work at home and abroad, so his name was constantly in the press.
My copy of Michael Pick’s most recent book, which has been insightful and a delight to read!
Of the eight distinguished books you have written, do you have a favorite? Is there another book on the way?
My favourite work is always my most recent, but I have a particular love for my first, "The English Room," with photographs by Derry Moore. I think that the most beautiful book is “BE DAZZLED!,” commissioned by New York publisher Suzy Slesin. I am now working on an illustrated biography of Anglo-French designer Edward Molyneux. He was a favourite with American ladies. Mrs. Rose Kennedy wore a 1938 dress she had bought in London, when her husband was Ambassador, to the Presidential Inauguration Ball of her son, John F Kennedy. The dress was timeless and Molyneux’s designs were sleekly elegant.
Is there a present-day designer that you think is up to the brilliant caliber of Hartnell?
Circumstances are now so totally unlike those experienced by Hartnell during his career from 1923-1977. He had a huge Couture House employing some 550 people. His greatest and lasting touch of luxury lay in his extraordinary embroidery workroom producing work unique to one single garment. Sadly, there is apparently no designer with his remarkable versatility today, even if the clientele existed.
What manners that were instilled by your parents have served you well in life?
My father and his father were both firm believers in the rule of law, liberty, and democracy. I graduated in history and law so feel the same. My extended family were all charming and gregarious, so I knew that being polite and good to others should be a normal part of life. Having lived through the great Nancy Mitford debate of the 1950s on ‘U or Non-U’, I believe that as someone else said, ‘if it’s me, it’s U.’ Done with style and consideration, all behaviour or faux-pas can be excused.
The artistic genres of interior design and fashion are quite similar. With your expertise in fine antiques and art, what do you think contributes to an inviting interior?
An inviting host is the most important element in any interior, be it grand or faded! To me, fashion and all design history are interrelated, and it seems impossible to read or write about any period without referring to how people lived or what they wore. We all need a basic appreciation of religion, philosophy, music and science, and many other facets of human endeavor vital to our own existence.
This is only a hint of our in-depth interview. Michael’s book, “The English House,” is a wonderful resource in my office, along with his newest publication, the Norman Hartnell book. I am most grateful to Michael for sharing his distinguished expertise with me. I hope that you may be inspired to attend the Kensington Palace exhibition in London, before it concludes, with a new appreciation for Norman Hartnell’s stunning Royal creations!
Consider inspiring one or two friends to subscribe to Lessons for Lovely Living today! You may also join me on Instagram for daily inspiration.